Sunday, March 9, 2014

"Intolerant and Armed"

Winter has been a pretty rough season on the old body. On New Year's Day I tore (superficially I believe) my right MCL while skiing, then a week later I sprained my ankle playing Noon Ball at the college. On top of all that it felt like the A2 pulleys on my right and left hand were beginning to strain. Thankfully the ski season has been mediocre at best in Idaho, so it was easy to abstain from skiing for the rest of winter and heal up.

Climbing has been going great though. I spent all of February training stamina and technique with big gains. My last post focused on a 5.10d called Bologna Pony and the desperate final moves. I'm happy to report that yesterday I once again almost sent the route. Sadly I fell off at the crux again, but the route feels more solid. I attribute yesterday's failed attempt to wasting time looking for a key foothold and undercommitting to the finish. The final moves - two crimps to a right hand gaston and left hand sidepull to a slopey crimp to the ledge - went very well. I'm strong enough to hit the crimp with my right hand and cross through with my left hand. Now I just need the mental acuity to finish the route!

Climbing season is just around the corner and I couldn't be happier for it.