Lots and lots of climbing has been happening lately. Since I have returned to Idaho and started climbing with Travis I have been getting outside about twice a week for bouldering and some roped climbing. All of this climbing made me realize how weak my shoulders are, and I am now on a psuedo-rehab path to making sure that I don't sideline my climbing season (or career!) with imbalanced or underdeveloped shoulders.
In addition to Travis I've picked up a few other climbing partners, namely Chris and Scott. Both are good people, strong climbers, and a lot of fun to hang out with. I've been making AM trips to the Black Cliffs with them to work on my lead climbing and knock some climbs off of my to-do list. It was on Wednesday that I experienced a pleasant surprise. I led Balogna Pony (5.10d) and nearly flashed the route, making it to the crux at the top with only two moves to go. After about 5 more attempts I thought I had the sequence wired, and the crux solved. The route is a sustained climb up a column then onto an overhanging arete. The latter half of the climb is pumpy, taking the climber through several juggy lips and highsteps to some crimps and a pinch, to a good slopey crimp, to the final moves along a couple sharp ledges.
I returned yesterday and came within one move of redpointing the route. It turns out that I was using a rather shortsighted sequence to finish the route. In three attempts I never came closer than the first attempt, but I learned a lot about the route, my tendencies as a climber, and have both sections of the climb absolutely wired.
In more exciting and edifying news I accepted a job as the Visit and Event Coordinator at the College of Idaho's Admissions Office. In this job I am responsible for providing a great on-campus experience for interested students and families to show them that the C of I is the right school for them. Interestingly, since returning to Idaho I found that I have many connections to the C of I. My oldest friend Geoff Williams and his mother are both alumni of the school, a good friend from Seattle U is dating an alum, and many of my friends in the valley are C of I alums or connected with alums in some way. Oh, and I know the Dean of Students...so yeah.
I'm excited to start on a professional path in student affairs. I'm excited to see what I will make of this job.
In addition to Travis I've picked up a few other climbing partners, namely Chris and Scott. Both are good people, strong climbers, and a lot of fun to hang out with. I've been making AM trips to the Black Cliffs with them to work on my lead climbing and knock some climbs off of my to-do list. It was on Wednesday that I experienced a pleasant surprise. I led Balogna Pony (5.10d) and nearly flashed the route, making it to the crux at the top with only two moves to go. After about 5 more attempts I thought I had the sequence wired, and the crux solved. The route is a sustained climb up a column then onto an overhanging arete. The latter half of the climb is pumpy, taking the climber through several juggy lips and highsteps to some crimps and a pinch, to a good slopey crimp, to the final moves along a couple sharp ledges.
I returned yesterday and came within one move of redpointing the route. It turns out that I was using a rather shortsighted sequence to finish the route. In three attempts I never came closer than the first attempt, but I learned a lot about the route, my tendencies as a climber, and have both sections of the climb absolutely wired.
In more exciting and edifying news I accepted a job as the Visit and Event Coordinator at the College of Idaho's Admissions Office. In this job I am responsible for providing a great on-campus experience for interested students and families to show them that the C of I is the right school for them. Interestingly, since returning to Idaho I found that I have many connections to the C of I. My oldest friend Geoff Williams and his mother are both alumni of the school, a good friend from Seattle U is dating an alum, and many of my friends in the valley are C of I alums or connected with alums in some way. Oh, and I know the Dean of Students...so yeah.
I'm excited to start on a professional path in student affairs. I'm excited to see what I will make of this job.
