Sandstone Splitter

Today was a damn fine day of bouldering.  Beginning on Monday I kept an eye on the weather in the Columbus and Athens area because I wanted to get in some more bouldering after a disappointing performance at Crank-O-Ween.  Athens experienced three days of unusual heat and sun including today.  Temps were not perfect, but the sun and heat dried out the usually damp Athens area so that climbing was a reality today.  Despite some comical wrong turns on the way to Athens I left the gloom and gray of Columbus for brilliant sunlight and fall scenery.

One of the routes I got on today is an Athens classic called the Bird's Nest.  The route starts on a feature called a "colonette"- a geologic term for weird, hollow, rudder-like appendage that hangs of a roof -  and tops out on rounded sandstone.

I spent a while in this area struggling to top out on some of the routes that required a great deal of commitment.  One of the downsides of bouldering alone is that I have to be very choosy about what I climb.  Without a spotter the risk from falling becomes much greater, especially considering that I was working on a relatively tall route.  If you look at the picture below, the route I spent the most time on starts below the big flake and tops out on bare sandstone.  The finish seems to require a heel hook and some squirreling over the lip.  It's scary in general, and being alone I wasn't ready to commit fully to the move.

After weighing the pro's and con's of continually falling about 7 feet onto my pad (and running out of water) I decided to trek back to the car and across the street to get some more water and take a break.  The climbing in Athens is easily accessible from the city, so pit stops are simple and quick. The quality of the sandstone was surprisingly good in this area, and if the weather cooperates I will be back again to try and finish off a couple of routes.



With food and water in my I felt ready to seek out some less risky climbs.  About half a mile away I found a boulder  referred to as the "Classic Boulder" by the locals.  The local in question was climbing barefoot without chalk.  Although he struggled much more than I did on this boulder the heart he showed more than made up for his lack of footwear.  Neither of us were able to send the route on the left face of the boulder, so we played around on some of the easier variations and routes in the area.  

Part of the impetus to climb outdoors is to prepare for my upcoming trip to visit Ranger in Tennessee and climb in Little Rock City.  Hopefully by then the holes in my hands have filled in with manly calluses.  

Cranked Out

Today was the aforementioned Crank-O-Ween III, a bouldering competition held at Kinetic Climbing Gym.  I used to climb often at Kinetic in the past (you can find photos of the gym in Jan or Feb 2011).  Since I haven't bouldered in a long time my only goals for the comp were to have fun and climb interesting-looking routes.  Sadly I got into my own head and got too frustrated to climb at one point.  Though I struggled I'm glad that I got to compete.  The setters did a great job making interesting, fluid, and dynamic routes of a variety of styles.

 I'm pretty wiped after the comp.  I pursued some tough routes.  I'm looking forward to joining Kinetic again once I have the money and beginning my training anew.  As much as I like the OAC (Outdoor Adventure Center) at OSU, Kinetic is the only place to seriously train unless you have a hangboard or your own climbing wall. 

 I would have liked to climb better, but my performance tonight is motivation to train harder in the future.  JT York and Cali Foodie stopped by to watch for the first round of competition and took some action shots. 

 

Crank-O-Ween III

I decided to enter a local bouldering comp.  It should be fun because: I will get to work on some rad routes set by rad setters; I like climbing; I'm convincing my friends to come see the tiny hovel I used to climb/train in; I miss bouldering after doing top-rope at the student center. 

I Am Far Too Lazy to Run a Marathon

Today was mainly a day of service-related things.  I realize it's been a loooong time since I updated this blog, but then again, not much of import happened between September 23 and now.  I volunteered for the Columbus Marathon today and began to dispel the long held conviction that I would never run a marathon.  Something about watching the middle pack of runners and their look of determination, strength, and/or pain makes me want to partake in that.  Although I should probably start with a half-marathon.

In the works is a trip to Tennessee to visit my college friend Ranger who is studying at the University of Tennessee in Knoxville.  We'll be bouldering at Little Rock City and hopefully sending some classic routes.  I haven't climbed in a while due to tendonitis and being in China so I'm stoked on climbing outside again on real rock.  The ARC at the university leaves a lot to be desired, but it's an adequate training facility for the time being.

EDIT:  10/22
 I neglected to mention my service trip to Mississippi that will happen prior to Christmas.  A group of 10 students and I will go down to the Gulf Coast to work on renovations with Habitat for Humanity.  I have yet to meet everyone in the group but I am excited.  This group of students includes several students who have done Buck-I-Serv (our service group's moniker) in the past.  Having a mix of returning students and first-timers like myself provides a mix of perspectives and expectations.  The veterans already know what to expect and the new members bring in fresh questions and ideas.  It is a 14 hour drive from Columbus to our service site.  I'm looking forward to 14 hours of driving, singing, music (possibly teasing the music selections too), stories, excitement, and anticipation.  

XC

I have been running with the OSU Running Club since the beginning of the academic year.  I've enjoyed the camaraderie on some of the runs, and especially during track workouts.  The group is a varied mix of seasoned Varsity and Junior-Varsity athletes, recreational runners, and marathoners.  It makes me feel energetic and lively to be running with a group of skilled and passionate runners, and also old since the vast majority of the runners are in their third year or less at OSU.  I've made some new friends within the club:  Tough Mudder and Red Runner.  Tough is a Navy veteran returning to higher education.  Red is a graduate student from China studying computer programming. 

This weekend I volunteered at the Otterbein Invitational by taking splits and cheering on the team.  Being at a meet brought back many positive memories of high school and college XC meets.  I've missed the team atmosphere as well as the giddy nervousness you get just before a race begins.  I also missed the feeling of running in XC spikes and splashing through mud and puddles and dirt.  Volunteering was a lot of fun.  I'm not used to being on the spectator side of a race, but it was empowering to be able to cheer on my teammates as they ran the final 50 yards to the finish chute.  For those who weren't tanked at the end of the race I could see their stride and kinetics change as I yelled for them to pump their arms and legs, or to catch the runner in front of them. 

Being a part of the club has given me a shared sense of purpose that I think I have missed in the cohort.  Although the members of the club vary in their reason for being present we all enjoy running and the feeling that comes with running and a good, sweaty run.  I don't know if I will race this year since I am trying to focus more on climbing, but I would like to get a few 5K's and 10K's under my belt again, though I think all the rest of the races this year will be road races with the exception of the Tough Mudder event in April  (www.toughmudder.com)


 

On being bi-racial and having/losing white privilege

Sometimes I say really stupid things.  Most of the time in the moment in which I speak I believe my words are enlightening or poignant.  During a diversity class I tried to explain to the class that being proud of being White and being proud of white privilege cannot be separated simply becuase one of them makes us uncomfortable.  I made the example that as a Japanese-White person when I say I am proud to be Japanese that that means to someone I am proud of the attack on Pearl Harbor.  I actually uttered in class:  "If I say that I am proud to be Japanese then it means--and I can't believe I'm about to say this--that I am proud of the attack on Pearl Harbor."  Honestly, I am ambivalent about Pearl Harbor.  It happened.  It was a desparate and tactically foolish maneuver on the part of the Japanese.  It is history.  It had huge impacts on my grandparents and shaped their lives. 

Part of me regrets using the example of being Japanese and discussing Pearl Harbor to explain how white privilege and being White are inseparable.  I'm sure better, less inflammatory examples exist, and I've already received some correspondence from my peers asking "if I really am proud of the attack on Pearl Harbor."  I've always had high expectations of my cohort, even when they've proven me wrong.  It is still discouraging to hear that some of them just don't get it.  It has prompted a bizarre sense of otherness.  It's frustrating to hear my peers say that they are proud of being White but aren't proud of white privilege.  Obviously it's distressing to say that one is proud of sytemized oppression, but to say that the two phenomenons can be separated is dillusional.  At best, saying they are different things is a euphemism to make people feel better about themselves. 

White privilege is an assumption on behalf of the majority culture.  This is not to say that it is insidious, simply that when one is White one is able to operate on assumptions that go unrecognized.  Peggy McIntosh's examples of white privilege are all assumptions of behavior or treatment that Whites do not expect or even consider because they are assumed or taken for granted.  As an Asian-American male I can assume some of these privileges but not all.  My run-in with the cyclist last week showed me that I can't assume I'll always be taken for a domestic student or an American.  Using the Museus and Harris reading it's possible to see how the assumptions that are white privilege establish White values and norms.

That white privilege confers its own set of values and norms for Whites isn't an unbelievable phenomenon.  White priviliege and the omnipresence of the dominant culture enables particular values over others.  In particular, those values reinforce ideas and norms held by Whites.  One salient example of values is the value of diversity.  Within the dominant paradigm diversity is a celebration of difference and the other.  Within the minority paradigm diversity may be seen as the opportunity to be learned about or understood, as though the differences or even deficiencies of the other imply that they are in need of repair or renovation. 


Last week I was out running with my Chinese friend Han Econ.  Han Econ is a friend from Wuhan who lives in Columbus and is pursuing a doctorate in Economics.  We were returning from a run and crossing a busy street when we went in front of a cyclist who I honestly didn't even notice until he started saying things to us.  His epithats included that we were "puppets of the [Chinese] government," and the insinuation that we were less than him.  I overreacted, which I'm sure he enjoyed.  Eventually after I told him that I was American born he called me a traitor, a coward and a blasphemy of God.  Until he made that last comment I had been calculating whether or not I could outrun his bike and kick his teeth in.  The last comment made me realize that he was something of a loon since the logic leading from "American born Japanese" to "blasphemy of God" is pretty sketchy.  


Looking back on my run in with the cyclist I can't help but consider my bi-racial identity.  I am White and Asian/Japanese.  Does this mean I benefit from white privilege?  Certainly as an Asian-American or model minority I belong to a relatively more privileged race when compared to the stigmas or stereotypes that Blacks and Latinos must overcome regarding their work ethic, education level or aspirations, or even the possibility of gang affiliation and whether or not they are "safe" people to be around.  I can't help but to ask myself if in assuming that I was an international student that, that cyclist took my Whiteness or white privilege away from me.  Going back to what I wrote in the beginning about being assumed to be American or domestic, I think I experience a moment of losing white privilege.  Dr. Strayhorn asked the class if white privilege can be shared or conferred.  In talking with Meg after class I know she has an excellent example regarding the treatment a friend receives in a store when Meg is or is not present.  But given the large bi-racial population of the class (Blossom, Maddie, Ashley, Chris, Danielle) I have my own question about white privilege.  Can white privilege be taken away?

Be sure to wear some flowers in your hair

This past weekend I went to San Francisco to attend the wedding of some of my college friends as well as the birthday party for my cousin.  I haven't been to San Francisco in well over eight years so returning to the city was a real treat for me.  After returning from to Columbus from Shanghai going to San Francisco was an opportunity to stay in a proper, American city.

Emerging from the BART tunnels into the Financial District was a bit surreal.  I was back in a crowded, dirty, sunny city but now I could read the signs and I knew what was going on.  I relished this moment as I walked by groups of teenaged Europeans.  Something I've missed about a city is the food culture.  While Columbus has a vibrant food culture it pales in comparison to San Francisco.  My cousin and I had lunch at a restaurant on the wharf called Boulette's Larder.  While the main course of pulled pork was only quite good, the cheese cake was exceptional.  The cheesecake had the texture of a fluffy, white cheese and a richer, creamier cheesecake flavor.  It was rich without being heavy or decadent.  My cousin's chocolate mousse however, was all of those things, but rightly so.  Later on in the trip I had some Pho at a Vietnamese restaurant called Turtle Tower.  Places like this are why I love the West Coast.  While Columbus does have a growing Asian community and Asian food restaurants, the pho in San Francisco tasted fresher and more natural, lacking the heavy spices that places in Columbus use to make their pho delicious.

One of the highlights of the trip was Uncle Gee.  I went to China Town with my cousin on a whim to find some tea since my supply of Oolong tea from China is dwindling.  We found a shop where an old but vivacious Chinese man was yelling, "Come in and have some tea.  It makes you young and sexy like me!"  My cousin and I went in our curiosity aroused by this boisterous man.  We spent an hour tasting teas and listening to jokes by Uncle Gee.  Uncle told us all about the history of tea and why you have to wash the tea before serving it (remove chemicals and feces).

Uncle is a wild card.  Uncle asked if my cousin and I were in a relationship, to which I replied that we were cousins.  His reply, "Is she single?"  He also told another group not to touch his daughter (anyone who frequents his shop becomes part of his family) or he would sick his very hungry Pit Bulls on them.   He told my cousin, "Girl you don't need coffee.  It dries you up like a prune.  Drink tea like me.  Makes you sexy!" *he strikes a pose*  We found out that Uncle is 82....and he looks better than some 40 and 50 year olds I've seen in the US.  He retired from Civil Engineering twenty years ago and apparently decided to sell tea.  He also showed us his special collection of aged teas that cost anywhere from $12,000 to $100,000.  When we left he demanded great, big, gruff hugs from both of us.  I definitely plan to return to his shop and/or order tea from him via the phone.

Most important was the wedding.  I had been one of the last people to see my friends leave Seattle (I helped them pack up) so it was only fitting to see them wed.  The ceremony itself was a short, Catholic ordeal at a neighborhood church.  The reception was a blast however.  In between drinks I bantered with one of the grandfathers about flirting and relationships.  When the Best Man and the bridesmaids gave their speeches I was very touched.  I felt privileged to be sharing this memory with people who had known Pat and Cat far longer than I had.  But we all saw the same qualities in the two and got to share our stories about them.  Seeing the way Pat and Cat interacted throughout the wedding and the reception touched me on a deep level.  I haven't seen such obvious and poignant love in two people in some time.

As this was my first adult wedding I applied myself too liberally to the drinks and crashed at 9 pm.  Thankfully I was none the worse for wear in the morning.  I spent some time wandering the area around the hotel while everyone else slept on.  My flight was not until 11pm so I spent time with my family at my cousin's birthday party and around town before finally catching the red eye back to Columbus.  

Day 4 "You look awesome"

Clearly I can not be relied upon to write a blog while in a foreign country.  But in my defense there were too many fun things to do.

JT York has been good enough to post his recap of our China experience:  http://jtyork.blogspot.com/

I plan on adding some sporadic thoughts on the China trip since JT York covered many similar first impressions.  Especially the part about falling in love with the city of Xian...followed closely by Shanghai.  

Days 2 & 3 part 2 "Hey guys, watch this"

Day 2 continued:

We visited Tianamen Square after getting settled into the Three Legged Frog hostel.  The hostel itself is very cozy and is clean enough by Chinese standards.  Tianamen Square is huge.  The square holds Mao's tomb in the center and around it are several significant cultural buildings such as the National Museum of History and the Chinese Workers' Cultural Palace.  The Zhengyang and Qianmen gates border the southern part of the square and the Forbidden City occupies the northernmost portion.  We did not actually enter the Forbidden City, but all of the walking around gave us a good glimpse of the older Chinese architecture and style.  After being out in the sun for so long we felt ready for dinner, but when I returned to the hostel I promptly flopped into bed.  This was at 5pm.  From what I gather everyone did this.  We were just too exhausted from the walking and the sun and the traveling.

Day 3:

Today was the day to tour the Great Wall of China.  We visited the Jinshanling section of the wall, which was less occupied by tourists.  We had more personal time to explore the wall, albeit accompanied by our "personal tour guides" who were trying to work their way into our goodwill to sell us souvenirs of the trip.  They were local Mongolians who had set up shop in the base area by the parking lot.  They would attach themselves to one of us and walk alongside us, offering tips and insights as well as taking pictures and even fanning us at times.  They were a little obnoxious at first, but after an hour their presence felt much more natural.  Apparently they abscond and traverse the wall two or three times in a day trying to sell their wares.

We really lucked out with the weather on this day.  The sun was obscured by clouds for most of the day.  We were able to stay cool despite all of the walking (and some running) that we did along the wall. The wall itself is amazing.  The Jinshanling portion trails across the mountain tops and ridges.  It's hard to imagine anyone wanting to build a wall upon these mountains, let alone travel over them to invade.   Judicator Brewskie, JT York and I put it upon ourselves to make it all the way out to the Five Window Tower because our guide told us that it was the farthest that we could go.  Getting there was rough.  The Great Wall dips and rises with the mountains, making the walk difficult, especially when the steps suddenly become steep and treacherous.

We made it to the Five Windows tower and promptly sat down for a while to catch our breath.  The journey to and from the Five Windows Tower was exhausting, but wholly worthwhile.  We all got fantastic pictures and bonded over our collective stubbornness/stupidity.  The view returning was breathtaking, but I will let my pictures do the talking since I find myself at a loss for words.

During the Great Wall excursion Mr. Mundo struck up conversation with a French tourist aboard our bus.  Inspired by his amiable nature I decided to converse with some Canadians that were sitting behind me.  They proved to be a lot of fun.  The Canadians were also graduate students studying in China.  They were on a brief break and had come to Beijing to enjoy themselves.  They gave us many insights into haggling, which I have since used to buy some knock off Ray Bans for a steal!

Returning from the wall we rested then ventured out for Beijing duck.  The hostel employees told us of a good restaurant nearby.  The culture at this restaurant was unlike anything that I had expected.  Smoking inside was allowed, some men had their shirts off, the hostess moved the occupants of one table in order to seat us, and spitting, throwing trash, and leaving cigarette ash onto the floor was completely acceptable.  I don't know if this restaurant only appealed to a particular demographic, but it was an eye opening experience into Chinese culinary culture.  The food was delicious though and we enjoyed the restaurant atmosphere.  The whole meal cost less than $7 per person and left us satiated.  Afterwards we wandered around our area of Beijing and found a large market street full of lit up signs and peddlers selling light up toys.

The stores were blasting techno music and, suddenly, Mr. Mundo launched into a full on dance number of his own creation.  I have not laughed so hard in a long time.  Mr. Mundo clapped, spun, kicked and shuffled his way along the marble street drawing a sizable crowd around him who did not grasp the concept of clapping in time, but a good time was had by all.

WHEW!  that's it for day 3.  Day 4 coming soon (hopefully I'll be back on track by week's end!)










Mister Mundo is the friendliest man in the world, and a great dancer.
BEIJING DUCK!

Days 2 & 3: "Danger is my maiden name"

I do not have a great track record so far in foreign countries.  I've been scolded in Russian airspace, Chinese airspace, and at the Great Wall.  The flight from Moscow to Beijing was surprisingly open, with many empty seats, especially in business class.  But the flight was otherwise ordinary.  Our taxi ride into Beijing, however, was not.

After gathering our bags we went out into the taxi queue to get our first taste of organized chaos.  The line for taxis was long, but we spied a man with a van who waved us other, directing us around the line and past a traffic guard who tried halfheartedly to prevent us from crossing.  Van Man wanted Y600 for the ride into Beijing but Ohio Homebody knew the going rate and promptly turned us away.  We piled into three other "official" taxis (I say official because they have the same paint job as all other taxis) and took off for Beijing.

The drivers got confused about 20 minutes into the drive.  They pulled over onto a median between an off-ramp and the freeway, with one of the taxis hanging over into the freeway.  The drivers talked for several minutes before taking off again.  My taxi was the lead taxi and things seemed to be going ok until we stopped in front of a hotel to wait for the rest of the taxis, who didn't appear for five minutes.  At this point it was clear that our drivers had no idea where they were going.  I was worried that our trip might be over before it had really started, but thankfully our compatriots appeared.  JT York informed us that both of the other taxis got separated and spent some time circling the block around Tianamen Square before figuring out where we were.

We pulled into a narrow alleyway and stopped at the Far East Youth Hostel, which is not the hostel that we booked.  We showed our driver the correct address.  He pointed to the hostel and said something in Chinese, probably "I'm tired of this and you're close enough."  We got out, paid our Y100 for each taxi, and began walking with our bags.  The Three Legged Frog was actually very close.  I sympathize with our drivers.  They were clearly lost, overwhelmed, and eager to get rid of us.  I'm just glad they got us close to our hostel.

More happened after this but I'm exhausted and must retire.  I'll update in Wuhan.

Sparknotes:

Visited Tianamen Square and the outskirts of the Forbidden City
Everyone made plans for dinner but passed out around 5pm at the sight of a comfy bed after several hours in the sun.
The Great Wall of China is awesome, literally inspiring awe in you.
Canadians are great compatriots.
Don't buy ANYTHING you are offered at the Great Wall.  This goes double if you are a sucker like me.
Mister Mundo is the friendliest man in the world, and a great dancer.
BEIJING DUCK!

Day 1 "I'm overwhelmed just telling you about it."

Day 1 of the trip was spent driving the 8-9 hours from Columbus to the residence of Judicator Brewskie's family.  JB and I drove the rest of the Wuhan 7 and some hilarity ensued.  While JB's car slept for the majority of the trip, my car was quite lively.  The passengers included JT York, Mr. Mundo and (introducing) Ohio Homebody.   We perfected the car dance and sampled some Justin Beiber at Mr. Mundo's request.  JT York is excited to see pandas, Ohio Homebody is looking forward to Chinese architecture, and I am looking forward to people watching in China.

Along the way we drove through West Virgina briefly before crossing into Pennsylvania.  JB's family lives in the Amish country and during the drive we passed several horse and buggies with Amish families in them, and saw a couple of barefoot Amish girls on scooters pushing their way down the country roads.  It's beautiful country out here and the last few hours of the drive were increasingly pleasant and scenic with rolling hills and lush forests surrounding the road and farm plots.

Tonight we are staying in Judicator Brewskie's house.  It is an old Victorian house originally built in the 1790's with additions in the 1890's and the 1920's.  It is beautiful and certainly qualifies as an American heirloom.  JB's mother has decorated the house with old, vintage pieces of local Pennsylvania and American culture.  The house looks and feels classic.  My favorite bit of Americana is an old tri-corner hat the family found in the attic.  There is no tag so it may very well be an original colonial tri-corner hat!  Or a good looking imitation.  Either way it's a unique piece of early American culture.

Day 2 will be spent in transit.  We calculated our travel time to be around 27 hours on planes and a van.  Really it's almost 48 hours including the 10 hour layover in Moscow.  Hopefully they are playing the World Cup qualifiers in the airport bar...

Ready or not here I come!

The last week has been a mad sprint to finish finals.  As my last post suggests finals take priority over all else, especially personal health.  Thankfully, year one of the HESA program is behind me and I can move onto more pressing matters such as China.  5 weeks in China!

Thankfully the car (Black Thunder) has been "repaired" and can now transport us to Judicator Brewskie's Pennsylvania residence.  I say "repaired" because the dent in the driver door is gone, but now the lock does not respond to the remote or the car lock/unlock toggle.  But at least the car is back.

My father came to visit for the weekend and made the end of finals week that much better.  He got to sample some of Columbus' proud foodie installations including Jeni's, Buckeye Pho, & Surly Girl.  Being around family and friends was a nice release from seeing people fleetingly in the library with the same tired look in our eyes.  But now everyone is much more lively!  Also, thanks to padre I now have some new blues albums to listen to on the drive to Pennsylvania.

Packing for China has proven to be the most difficult part of this ordeal.  At this point I'm three bags heavy including clothes, toiletries, gifts for the Chinese, food, pills and whatnot.  I'll need the third bag for all the stuff I'll pick up in China where the USD is worth 6x the Renminbi (Chinese unit of currency).

"I'm sorry I thought today was Wednesday"

Two things are synonymous with graduate school: stress, and unhealthy habits. 

To illustrate this concept I have 3 papers and a presentation due in less than 48 hours, and an IRB application that must be finished by tomorrow.  Instead of working on them I am writing a blog while eating some cheesecake that I found in the adjacent office.  Grad school renders common sense and willpower obsolete in the face of impending deadlines.  In grad school regularlly sleeping less than 5 or 6 hours a night is not uncommon.  Thankfully, my peers and I are not in a program like nursing or vet school where sleeping less than 5 or 6 hours a night is the norm.

Stopping for Kool-Aid on my way

I think I wrote in my last post that I served penance in May for all the work I did not do during April.  The light at the end of the tunnel shines a little brighter each day.  Papers are due and events are over.  I have been working on an event for the Ohio State University Alumni Association that happened last night  The point of the event was to recognize graduating students who have contributed to the university philanthropically or through exemplary student service and leadership.  I spent a lot of time in May worrying about the event until last week when a feeling of contentedness came over me.

The event went very well though.  Turnout did not meet the original expectations but the whole event went off seamlessly.  To top it all off I got my picture with Archie Griffin (Ohio State legend and icon) and will hopefully get it autographed when I finish my internship at the Alumni Association office on Monday.    Thinking about this is a strange revelation.  After the event ended was one of the first times that I had felt glad to be at Ohio State.  It may be because students enjoyed the event, or maybe it was because I was glad to have finished the 10 week programming process.  I spoke with Squeezy Wheezy last night about how I'm excited to have a piece of memorabilia from my 2 years at Ohio State.

We had two alumni speakers who delivered speeches about personal connections and endeavors within the university, and embodying pride that OSU students and alumni feel.  Both speakers seem to have rubbed off on me.  The event conveyed a sense of pride and poignant memories and reminded me of my time at Seattle University and everything that I accomplished while I was there.   Fittingly enough, after working in the alumni association I have finally drank the Kool Aid.

Though really, I should drink the Kool Aid.  Being at Ohio State University has allowed me the opportunity to travel to China and to write a thesis under the tutelage of some of the field's premiere scholars.  Ohio State also has contains a personal connection for me since my mentor/advisor Doctor Murphaczynski is an alumnus of this program and recommended it to me at a time when I poo-pooed Ohio State altogether.

Whether I like it or not I'll be in Columbus for another year before I move on.  I might as well get to like it rather than fight it and have the same tough fall and winter quarters I did this year.  Plus I'm buying football tickets next year, so that will be fun!

And then it was May

First off let me apologize for neglecting to write anything since the end of March.  I wish I could say that I was preoccupied with my studies and my thesis.  Honestly I was goofing off and preparing myself to have a difficult month of May by not preparing for the month of May.  That being said, I am currently in a Columbus coffee shop taking a break from working on my thesis.  With that in mind here is a quick and dirty summary of the last month.

Since April I've been working on an event for the Ohio State Alumni Association to recognize graduating seniors who have donated money to the university at some point in their undergraduate careers.  At the same time I was allegedly working on my literature review for my thesis.  At the same time I was taking three classes.  Though, really, it was more like two.  One professor has been incapacitated and the corresponding class is now being taught by an administrator from OSU who is also a graduate of the doctoral program at OSU.  Long story short, that class is completely FUBAR and no one in the program really knows what to expect.  Although Tall Bear may know since he works with the new professor.

I mentioned that I spent April goofing off.  I developed tendinitis in my elbows from climbing too much so I took some rest and took up Salsa dancing instead.  I've gone to Salsa dancing twice with Tokyo Hip Hop and once with Mister Mundo.  Mister Mundo really took to the dancing, telling me it reminded him of his childhood and home culture.  One of the best parts of being with Mister Mundo is that he always has a good time, and Salsa dancing is no exception.  I myself enjoy the dancing a lot.  We pay $10 for a two hour lesson and then the dance floor is open until two am.  So far I am 1 for 1.  The first time I felt confident but the second time I couldn't quite hold the beat, resulting in several dejected partners (one of whom told me I looked like I was pouting because I was so irritated with myself).  But I'm still going again.  Redemption.

I got to return home for my father's surprise birthday party at the end of April.  I really needed to return home as I spent my Spring Break working in Columbus where the weather couldn't decide whether to rain, shine, or be murky.  Boise, thankfully, knew to shine heartily the whole time I was home!  Being home was wonderful.  I haven't seen my family since December and even though I've gone for far longer stretches of time without seeing them, I think that the physical distance (and the fact that I loath Ohio) made the visit much more poignant.  My father's siblings and parents were also in Boise and I got to see them after nearly two years.  Spending time with them was a warm reminder of where I have come from and the tradition I am a part of.  I don't say this because my father's family is regal, but because it is beginning to dawn on me how much of myself I derive from being around my family and seeing how they have evolved from generation to generation.

I was able to see one of my oldest friends G-Off as well and got to hear about his graduate school visits and plans.  He will be obtaining his Masters in Teaching in Colorado and couldn't be more excited.  He'll be living in the desert where the primary forms of recreation are mountain biking and rock climbing.  He couldn't be more disappointed.  G-Off was who accompanied me on my drive across (most of) America to set up shop in Columbus.  I'm very excited for him to begin a new adventure, and I am also jealous of where he will be spending the next year or two.

I did a spot of bouldering as well and was reminded just how much more difficult outdoor sandstone is than indoor plastic.  Fittingly, after getting tendinitis, resting, climbing in Boise, and feeling fit I have decided to stop climbing for a time until I get my thesis under control.  At which point I will likely be leaving for Wuhan so it won't really matter.  That just means that I have the fall to look forward too.

It is back to the literary coal mine for me.

~AJ Yasuda

oh yeah...bouldering is hard

I finally made it outside to climb today.  I've been saving up to buy a crash pad and received it yesterday.

48x41x3.5

With no work today I made the drive down to Athens, Ohio to get on some good old sandstone.  Unfortunately, it has rained a lot in the past few days and the area was still muddy and the rock damp.  Sandstone becomes brittle when wet and is likely to break if you put too much force on it, so I spent some time wandering the area looking for something dry.  I settled for a boulder that looked "dry enough" and chose routes that I thought had solid holds that wouldn't break on me (of course I still managed to chip a couple pieces off, thankfully they aren't integral to the route).

Bouldering on real rock reminded me of two aspects of climbing I have forgotten about while climbing at Kinetic; a) real rock is sharp! and b) no one has taken the time to tape the route, meaning that you have to spend more time thinking about foot and hand placement, thus making the climb more difficult if you interpret the wrong moves or don't take the time to consider hand and foot placement.  Bouldering ranges in difficulty from V0 to V15.  When climbing indoors I average around V5 or even V6 on a good day.  Outdoors I climb V2.  I'm plenty strong to climb hard routes, but I don't have the technique or mental sharpness to climb moderate routes yet...but soon!  Below is a picture of the route I sent:

The route runs from the bottom right along the lip of the boulder to the bulge in the upper left of the picture.  From there you mantle to topout.  Another aspect of outdoor climbing that is rarely practiced indoors is the topout.  Topping out is what it sounds like, you get on top of the boulder.  In most gyms you just climb to the final hold then drop down once you reach the top.  Some specialized gyms have "topout boulders," freestanding structures that you can climb on top of with a set of steps or large holds you can climb down on.  

The V2 boulder took a while to finish, but once I understood the route it flowed very nicely.  I need to get outside to climb more and it looks like Spring Quarter will be a good time to do so.  The weather is unseasonably warm in the Midwest, but that also means that intense storms are more likely as well.  There have been a few storm and tornado warnings in the area.  Though I doubt a tornado will touch down in Columbus the thought still worries me and I'll have to put together an emergency preparedness kit just to be safe.  

One of the guys from Kinetic told me about a trip to Horse Pens 40 in Alabama in April that I will be training for.  Gonna have to hit the books hard before and after the trip...but it will be worth it I think!

When I'm not in class...

I realized today that I'm averaging two posts a month.  That number is sad seeing as how writing is how I propelled myself through undergrad and now grad school.  Time to step up the posting while I can.


OSU is on Spring Break right now and most of my people are gone for the week.  I'm still in Columbus which is fitting since I've rarely done anything for Spring Break in the past.  Last year I worked.  The year before I worked.  Junior year I went skiing.  The two years before that I was training for cross-country.  It feels weird to be content doing nothing when my peers are all doing something.  Thankfully, I ordered a bouldering crash pad which I expect to be arriving soon.  The weather for the week of Spring Break should be warm and sunny, which are perfect conditions for driving down to Athen, OH and bouldering to break in the new pad and wrap up 10 weeks of training at Kinetic.

I talk about Kinetic a lot and get a few questions about it from time to time.  Kinetic is a private climbing co-op in Columbus operated by a local climber and industrial designer who creates climbing holds for companies.   Kinetic is where most of the focused and elite Columbus climbers converge since the gym focuses on overhanging, technical routes.  Climbing there has made me stronger than alternative gyms simply for the fact that I'm hauling my weight around on a 30 to 60 degree overhang.  Another perk is that everyone gets a key.  In fact I just returned from a productive night session there.  Below are some pictures of the gym:

 
Hopefully I can update again this week about bouldering in Athens.

Getting my stuff done so I can look in the mirror

Back in October the Chronicle of Higher Education had a humorous article about procrastion and productivity.  The writing style is clever and the point is obvious, procrastination lets us tend to tasks that appeal to us simply because they are less arduous than whatever deadline is looming before us.  We rationalize these lesser tasks as more pressing than the more important task.    A similar Youtube animation poses the same point.

 I lived that experience yesterday when I realized I still had to read two books for a paper due on Sunday night.  I found the books after cleaning up my apartment from the production of last week's Org Theory paper.  I put them on my desk after cleaning the desk up so I had a productive space.  Then I realized that I needed to clean the kitchen and do some dishes.  In the process of doing that, my disposal broke and leaked all over the floor.  I cleaned that up and called Maintenance for a repair.  I decided that working while someone was fixing my apartment would be difficult.  I was hungry so I went grocery shopping (Kroger is only 200 feet away).  I came back and the maintenance worker was finishing the repair.  He left and I got down to work on taking notes from the book.

Now, one very important thing that both of the above authors forgot to mention is the sense of elation and/or accomplishment that accompanies this gradual progression towards doing work.  After I finished the first book I felt ready for a break because I felt so proud for having done so much before 1 pm.  Fueled by this ill-gotten sense of accomplishment I threw my climbing gear in my bag and biked to Kinetic (the climbing gym) because it was sunny out...but not warm and not without a strong headwind while riding up High St.  At the gym I had a surprisingly productive workout considering that yesterday I had tried the same workout and failed miserably.  

Upon returning home I felt further buoyed by my accomplishments-that-were-not-helping-me-finish-schoolwork so I cooked up some cod for lunch and made burritos.  Followed by a nap and going to one of the most dubious bars I've seen in a while, followed by dinner with a group of Japanese folks from Honda. 

At dinner I quipped that my grandma would be so happy to know that I was having dinner with a group of Japanese people.  Most of them work for Honda and emigrated to the U.S. as a result.  Dinner was a blend of Indonesian and Japanese dishes, which I was very grateful for since my cooking pales in comparison in both taste and nutritional content.  More importantly, this dinner was a chance for me to be a part of the Japanese community in Columbus.

Those of you that know me know that I rep my Japanese heritage hard...obnoxiously so at times...possibly ad nauseam.  But as much I as enjoyed eating and talking with them I also felt like the odd man out.  Language was an obvious factor, they all spoke fluent Japanese while I spoke none.  That wasn't off-putting so much as the physical differences.  I've always contended that I look clearly Japanese and that to confuse me for another Asian race, let alone a non-Asian race, was a clear indicator of cultural incompetence.  But after sitting at a table of all Japanese I realized that I do not look Japanese at all.  For one thing, Japanese have black hair.  I mean black, obviously black hair, whereas mine is a dark brown that could pass for black (and I have argued with people that my hair was black).  Likewise, the Japanese at the table had darker skin than I.  I don't attribute this fact to sun exposure since they all work full-time in an office whereas I have the luxury of going outside practically as the whim (and weather) suit me.  All of this was a subtle reminder to me that I am Hapa.

I don't feel shame at being Hapa, but sitting at that table brought back a slew of feelings that haven't been felt since I debated joining the Japanese Student Association at Seattle U.  The most prominent feeling being the notion that, "I'm not Japanese enough."  I had the good fortune to read some theories about intersectionality and identity development in multi-ethnic Asian-American students so I feel well equipped to grapple with the issues in my head.  Obviously, my "Japaneseness" cannot be measured quantitatively, so it becomes a qualitative measure of my appearance, that is, the image I portray.  It's a strange sensation to suddenly be unstable in something so central to your identity.  

However, these thoughts only came to me on the drive home and did not spoil the night.  In a particularly funny moment, I explained my tattoo to Tokyo Hip Hop and another woman who both laughed when I told them that the rising sun was in the background.  I was perplexed and asked why they laughed.  They told me it was cheesy, but after explaining the tattoo more and showing it to them the tattoo seemed more respectable.  What was funny about that exchange was how much pride I associated with the rising sun portion of my tattoo and how that pride was deflated when I was told that such a showing of ethnic pride was cheesy.  But, I realized that if a friend came to me talking about getting the American flag tattooed on him to represent his ethnic pride I would do the same thing.  It was a weird moment of being disconnected from my heritage  then coming back around to better understand it.  

Anyway, I'm off to do my stuff because I wanted to write this all down so it wasn't in my head 'cause I need to focus when I'm working on my stuff.      

Break on Through to the Other Side

Jim Morrison could not have phrased this sentiment better.  On Tuesday everyone in the Higher Ed and Student Affairs program had to turn in a monster of a paper for our most challenging professor.  We also presented to the class, which was less stressful but still added work.  Tuesday was not a good day for me.    I had coached myself to begin work on my paper early with positive, albeit meager, results.  The goal was to finish the paper on Sunday evening, then Monday at 2 pm, then 5 pm, then 8 pm, then midnight, then noon on Tuesday.  By one pm I had finished everything I needed for the presentation and skimmed the paper for errors.  But everything that could have gone wrong did go wrong as I traversed the campus looking for printing.

But finishing that paper and presentation brought on a wave of euphoria that only Coors Light and Buffalo Wild Wings could complement.  Frenchie's Choice, J.T. York, Dandy Woo, Cardmaster Cider and Ms. I Know You Can dined on greasy, saucy food and drank to celebrate finishing our papers.  It was delicious and everyone left happy.  Ms. I Know You Can is a new addition to the blog's cast of characters so she merits a brief introduction.

Ms. I Know You Can works at a local non-profit in Columbus serving as a coach and mentor for disadvantaged youth who want to attend college.  Often she is quiet in class, but when she has something to say her words are poignant and insightful.  She's also very sassy and it's satisfying to hear her opinions on things, as she has a lot to say.

Now that I'm on the other side I'm getting ready for the ACPA National Conference.  ACPA (American College Personnel Association) is one of the national associations of student affairs professionals.  Because their conference is in nearby Kentucky I'm going to Louisville for four days at the end of March to meet my peers in the field, learn from my faculty and others, and reconnect with friends from Seattle University.  I've been told that as a graduate student the conferences are a great way to network, learn and market yourself.  Then, as a professional, it's like a field-wide reunion of people you've worked with and people you've met.  I'm looking forward to learning a lot from the presenters and seeing a larger portion of my field.

Zhōngguó = China

In addition to a frightening paper for my Organizational Theory class, China has been at the forefront of my mind lately.  7 of us from the Higher Education and Student Affairs cohort (HESA) are traveling to Wuhan University in the Hubei province of China.  We have been planning the trip for several months now, and recently began to take our first steps to realizing our trip.  Last week a couple people fromthe cohort took it upon themselves to research airfare to China.  They were able to find a screaming deal that had us all emptying our pockets in a matter of hours.  The airfare was several hundred dollars cheaper than we had initially budgeted for, and from brief conversations I've had with other international travelers it seems that our ticket price was a respectable one. We also all sent in our visa applications on Friday (despite some scrambling by both myself and J.T. York).  At this point China is no longer an option, but a certainty.

In light of this fact I purchased a small guide to custom and culture in China.  J.T. York was hosting a prospective Masters student for our annual HESA interview/visit event.  I accompanied them and one other candidate around for a car tour of Columbus and a walking tour of the Book Loft.  The Book Loft is a large multi-room book store that was (I presume) originally a house of some sort before being made into a bookstore.  The rooms are as diverse as the types of books for sale;  some rooms are long and narrow, some are squat squares with hardly room for four people, and some are open galleries of shelves.  It's quite easy and fun to get lost in there.  If you are from the Seattle/Portland area, just imagine Powell's on a small scale.

The guide is a useful precursor to the trip as it covers a very brief history of China and its culture.  Useful bits of information include: cultural norms, banquet seating; ways to circumvent the language barrier, and funny stories of past visitors.  An ongoing part of my blog will focus on brief research of different topics covered in the guidebook in an effort to educate myself.

The Chinese take pride in their extensive cultural history.  Much of the technology and innovation that changed the Western world already existed in China centuries earlier; Gutenberg developed movable type in the fifteenth century, while the Chinese were already using movable type in the eleventh century.     China's history is rife with competing groups vying for power and lineage, including multiple dynasties that resulted in at least two "golden ages" as well as much struggle.  The most obvious bit of Chinese history for Western observers is the reign of Mao Zedong.

In 1916 the central government of China dissolved with the death of the reigning dictator Yuan Shih-Kai.  1921 saw the creation of Soviet backed Communism take root in China and in 1923 the Communists united with the Guomindang (National People's Party) to reunite Chine.  However, in 1925 the new leader of the Guomindang declared war on the Communists.  Civil war ensued until World War II when both sides fought to repel the Japanese.  Civil war resumed after WWII and in 1949 Mao Zedong led the Communists over the Guomindang forcing them to flee to Taiwan (but not without the gold reserves of the country in hand).

Compared to the last several decades, the beginning of Mao's reign was an improvement for the Chinese.  By the middle of the 1950's that improvement began to wane, and in 1965 Mao began the terrible "Great Proletarian Cultural Revolution."  The Cultural Revolution lasted until Mao's death in 1976.  His inner circle was incarcerated and Deng Xiao Ping came to power, ushering in the "Open Door Policy" that reintroduced China to foreign trade and being a member of the global community.  Deng favored a socialist market economy with a strong central government and his policies allowed for immense growth in China.  However, the Tienanmen Square massacre in June 1989 underscored the behavior of China's government and derailed progress for a time.

Today China ranks among the world's leaders and has proven itself to be an integral part of the world stage.

16 Days Later

One thing I never mentioned is the background of this blog.  The books were the default background when I created this blog, but they are such an apt representation of what I do that I kept them.  The books remind me of childhood, and reading the same books over and over because I'd read the others books already.  Clearly, I was an easily amused bookworm.

I've been talking to my cohort friends about going out every so often to help us participate in 'normal' 20-something activities.  A couple weeks ago Cardmaster Cider, Frenchie's Choice, and I went to Skully's, a local bar and dance place in the Short North of Columbus, for Ladie's 80's.  Ladie's 80's is a weekly event where the DJ plays music from the 80's (and now the 90's).  It felt good to have a couple drinks and dance and not think about classes and school and the cohort.  I've been actively deterring myself from talking about work/class/HESA when I'm not on campus because A) it's not that interesting if you aren't part of the program and B) it's not that interesting if you ARE part of the program.  However, this is not to say that my peers are not interesting people; they are remarkable individuals, but I would rather hear about THEM as opposed to their work load or class.  Eventually, the proverbial chime of midnight (11:00) threatened to render us as pumpkins (zombies) if we didn't get to bed at a decent hour for work/class the next day.

Going to Skully's got me itching to have fun again.  Last weekend I went out to another bar with my friend Tokyo Hip Hop and one of her friends.  It felt good to dance again even in the crowded bar.  Sadly, the bar was extra crowded on Saturday night, which resulted in spilled drinks and lost apparel.  Tokyo Hip Hop lost her jacket early on in the night, and then I lost my jackets with my keys in it just before we left.  The lesson here is to always use a coat check, especially if you like being warm.  What ensued was a cold walk to the car, followed by a briefly cold car ride to Tokyo Hip Hop's apartment (her friend drove, thank goodness).  By this point it was 3 am and we were still wound up from dancing and drinking, so we proceeded to listen to music on Youtube.  As her name suggests, Tokyo Hip Hop has a taste for hip hop.  She prefers artists from the 80's and 90's, such as Tupac, Biggie, TLC, Mary J. Blige, etc.  It was a lot of fun listening to music I haven't heard in a long time (or ever as was the case a few times).  I introduced her to Mackelmore, a Seattle-based MC, who I enjoy immensely.  I was grateful to be able to crash on an air mattress with a heavy Japanese quilt that night, as the temperature outside was around 20 and the temperature inside was affected by the severe cold.

The next morning entailed Azn Gourmet for breakfast/lunch before zipping back to my apartment to get some replacement keys and my spare car keys.  That cost $40 bucks which I begrudgingly parted with however.  Thankfully, my car had not been ticketed during the morning since it was Sunday.  I need to remember that Sunday is a get-out-of-jail-free card in terms of parking (J.T. York!)

Valetine's Day was a nice reminder of some lovely people in my life.  I spoke briefly with Boss and Squeezie Wheezy and expressed poignant affirmations with them.  I really don't know who I would be or where I would be without their influence in my life.

I'm hoping that this weekend will bring more fun.  I recently purchased a couch and chair to make my apartment feel more like a home and less like an embarrassment; now I can actually have people over!  The final piece is a coffee table, and I have my eye on a nice octagon shaped piece, but I'm hesitant to fork over $30 when I could get an ok coffee table for $20, or even a set for $20 or $30.  But, I need the table for games and guests, so I must make a decision soon.  Anyway, that's all for now.

What this blog is really about

As much as I like socks (and I do), this blog is not about socks.  This blog is about myself, A.J. Yasuda, venturing forth into Ohio to secure a Masters degree in the hopes of one day becoming an Director or Vice President of Student Life within the upper echelon of a university or college.  Currently, that dream is one thesis, 5 quarters, and one doctoral degree/dissertation away.  So I'm getting closer!

This blog is also about what I do and think while in Ohio.  For starters, I moved from Seattle, Washington to attend the Ohio State University.  Ohio has some unique things that Washington does not, namely a lack of topography.  As someone who finds joy in skiing I've had to refocus energy into my other interest, bouldering.  That being said, at this point I've put off skiing in Ohio altogether in the pursuit of training to boulder in Athens, Ohio (and beyond) and sport climb in the Red River Gorge.  So, in summation, this blog is about my life as a graduate student as well as my training regiment for bouldering...and my thoughts on anything that pops into my head.

At this point I've been in Ohio for nearly five months.  In that time I have found some things that I appreciate about Columbus, namely a low cost of living (compared to Seattle), very friendly people, a lively arts and music scene, and flat roads for biking fast to and from campus.  I also found a private bouldering gym hidden in the backalleys of Columbus that has become my new training ground, and through which I'm meeting new people who will hopefully join me in climbing trips.  I've also discovered good food, bars, and friends who I would be lost without.  These people are integral to my sanity here in Columbus, because without them I would just sit in my apartment or just sit in a bar.  These people are, in no particular order:  J.T. York, Tall Bear, Dandy Woo, Cardmaster Cider, Frenchie's Choice.  J.T. York actually gave everyone their nicknames in his own blog, and inspired me to start my own blog as well, so you can see how these people are influencing me already.

That's all for now!

 

My first post...about socks!

 Socks. Socks are a stereotypically unwanted gift that most children dread around Christmas time. Socks are the last thing that, as a child...or even an adult sometimes, you want to see inside a gift wrapped box. Why? Well, as a child I thought that socks were a boring gift. Socks were not electric, did not light up, did not change color, and did not raise my esteem on the playground. Hence, socks were an unimportant article of clothing to me for years and years. But then in high school I found running socks that had fun pictures on the ankle. My personal favorite was a red, white, and black pair that had a samurai on the ankle. Another says Corona on the ankle and Got Cerveza on the sole. I still have those socks.

Around Christmas I went looking for gifts and settled on a pair of socks for Squeezy Wheezy; a pair of black socks with an intricate peacock design along the calf. I thought they looked pretty and would look elegant on her. Interestingly enough, she also bought me a pair of socks. She bought me a pair of socks with a cartoony, godzilla-like creature stomping around the Golden Gate Bridge. They are terribly cute and fun. I'm wearing them now and as I look at them I can't help but think that I wish I had more cool socks as a kid.

As a child, the only thing worse than socks at Christmas time are any other types of clothing...in particular sweaters. As a child and teenager clothes were the last thing on my mind around any period of gift giving each year. Even in college clothes were an afterthought to grades, parties, girls, skiing, roommates, friends, classes, people, food, and anything else. The only times clothes came to mind were when I had to dress for something...like class or work. Now clothes are an integral part of my life. I have to dress to a standard for work and for conferences and meetings and classes. Ties, sweaters and sweater vests are becoming a new found interest of mine as I look for ways to dress up without looking boring.

Lately I've found a strange satisfaction with pairing ties and shirts. It's satisfying to look into a mirror and see a subtle pattern or accent in your tie pop because it is complemented by the color of the shirt. As an undergraduate I could never have appreciated this. But now I strive to make my outfits look stylish. I guess I am just vain.

That's all for now!